Choosing and Using a Leather Awl
Quick answer: A leather awl opens or eases a stitch hole so the needle and thread can pass through with slight resistance. Modern stitching irons are normally designed to punch fully through the leather. If you prefer the traditional method, the iron can mark the positions and the awl can open each hole as you stitch. Magnus normally punches through with his irons but still keeps an awl nearby for tight holes, thicker thread and backstitching.
An awl is a straightforward tool with a specific job: opening or easing a hole so the needle and thread can pass through cleanly. It can be used in the traditional mark-and-awl method, where each hole is opened as it is stitched, or as a supporting tool after modern stitching irons have punched the holes through. Magnus uses both approaches where they suit the work rather than treating one as the only correct method.
Awl blade shapes
The most common awl blade for hand leatherwork is the diamond awl, which has a tapered, lozenge-shaped blade. When pushed through the leather, it opens a clean elongated hole rather than a round puncture. This shape suits saddle stitching because the thread fills the elongated slot neatly, and the stitch lies flat across the surface.
Looking for a current tool? Browse leather stitching awls, including the Kevin Lee Interchangeable Blade Awl – French 2.0mm and Barnsley Clicker Pointed Awl – Scratch Awl. Replacement awl blades are listed separately; check compatibility on the product page before ordering.
The blade profile should be consistent from tip to shoulder, with a gradual taper. A blade that widens too abruptly near the handle will force the leather open further than necessary and leave a hole that is larger than the thread fills — which shows as an untidy stitch line.
Round awls open a circular hole and are used in some applications, but for hand stitching on vegetable-tanned leather, a diamond awl is the standard choice.
Blade size
Awl blades come in different sizes, and the blade should suit the thread and leather being worked. A heavier blade opens a larger hole, which is appropriate for heavier thread and thicker leather. A finer blade suits lighter leather and closer stitch spacings where a large hole would be disproportionate.
The practical check is simple: the needle and thread should pass through the opened hole cleanly and with firm but easy pull. If you are having to force the needle, the hole is too small — either use a slightly larger awl blade, or push the awl a little further through the leather to open the hole fully. If the hole is noticeably larger than the thread, the blade is too heavy for the application.
Sharpness matters significantly
An awl blade should be properly sharp — not sharp like a razor, but sharp enough to part the leather fibres cleanly rather than tearing or pushing them. A dull awl requires more force to use, distorts the leather around the hole, and produces a rougher result. It is also more tiring to use over a long stitch run.
Awl blades can be sharpened on a fine leather strop or with a small slip stone. The bevel on each flat of the diamond blade should be maintained. A blade that has been stoned and stropped properly cuts through leather with noticeably less effort than a new, unpolished blade from the packet.
How to use an awl correctly
Keep the awl blade aligned with the existing stitch mark and use a straight push-and-pull motion. Do not deliberately twist the blade as it enters. Push only far enough for the selected needle and thread to pass with slight resistance; forcing the widest part of the taper through every hole can make the opening larger than it needs to be.
Remove the awl steadily and stitch through the open hole immediately, before it has time to close or distort. On firmer vegetable-tanned leather the hole will stay open for a moment; on softer or wetter leather it may begin to close faster.
If you are using the traditional marking method, open one hole and stitch it before moving to the next. If the holes have already been punched through with a modern stitching iron, use the awl only where an individual hole needs easing. In either case, push only far enough for the selected needle and thread to pass with slight resistance.
The Kevin Lee awl we stock uses a replaceable diamond blade, which covers both of the points below.
Replacement blades
Some awl handles accept replaceable blades, which is useful because awl blades do dull with use, particularly on firm vegetable-tanned leather. A handle that takes standard blade fittings means you can replace just the blade rather than the whole tool, and carry a spare when doing production work.
Frequently asked questions
What does a leather awl do?
A leather awl opens or eases stitch holes so the needle and thread can pass through cleanly. In the traditional method, a pricking iron marks the positions and the awl opens each hole as it is stitched. Modern stitching irons normally punch the holes fully through, but an awl remains useful for a tight hole, thicker thread or backstitching.
How do you use a leather awl for stitching?
Keep the blade aligned with the stitch mark and push it straight through without deliberately twisting. Open the hole only far enough for the needle and thread to pass with slight resistance, then remove the awl with a straight pull and stitch the hole. The amount of penetration should suit the needle, thread and leather rather than automatically using the widest part of the blade.
What type of awl blade is used for leather saddle stitching?
A diamond awl blade is the standard for hand saddle stitching on vegetable-tanned leather. Its tapered, lozenge-shaped profile opens a clean elongated hole that the thread fills neatly, and the stitch lies flat across the surface. Round awls open a circular hole and are less suited to the appearance of a typical saddle stitch line.
How do you sharpen a leather awl?
Awl blades can be sharpened on a fine leather strop loaded with polishing compound, or with a small slip stone. The bevel on each flat of the diamond blade should be maintained consistently. A stropped awl blade cuts through leather with significantly less effort than a new, unpolished blade from the packet — and much less than a dull one.
