Rivets, Chicago Screws, and Snaps Explained
Quick answer: Rivets make a permanent fastening; Chicago screws can be unscrewed for adjustment or replacement; snaps are closures that open and close repeatedly. Choose the fitting for the construction, then use the setter or dies made for its exact type and size. A rivet-and-burr setter is a different tool from a cap-rivet or snap setter.
Rivets, Chicago screws, and snaps are three of the most commonly used hardware fittings in leatherwork. They look superficially similar to non-leatherworkers, but each has a different function, a different setting process, and is suited to different applications. Understanding the difference helps you choose the right fitting for the job.
Rivets
Rivets make permanent fastenings, but their construction varies. Cap rivets use a post and cap; copper or brass saddlery rivets are used with a burr. Choose the rivet system, size and setting tool together rather than assuming every rivet is assembled in the same way.
Rivets are used where a strong, permanent join is needed and the fitting will not need to be opened. Typical uses include joining bag straps to bag bodies, securing D-ring fittings to leather loops, reinforcing high-stress points, and fixing layers together where a stitch line alone may not be sufficient.
Double cap rivets have a decorative cap on both sides — the face and the back — so both sides of the piece look finished. Single cap rivets have a decorative face and a plain, folded back. For pieces where both sides are visible, double cap rivets give the cleaner result.
Setting rivets requires a correctly sized hole, the setter made for that rivet system and suitable support beneath the fitting. The post length must suit the assembled leather layers. Our rivet and burr setter is for its stated copper and brass saddlery rivet sizes; it is not a universal cap-rivet or snap setter. The 6-in-1 setting anvil supports its stated 6–15mm component heads. Check both tools against the actual fitting before setting it.
For post length and hole sizing, see how to choose the right rivet size.
Chicago screws
Chicago screws — also called binding posts or Chicago bolts — are a two-part threaded fitting. A male post threads into a female barrel from opposite sides of the leather. They can be removed and replaced with a suitable screwdriver, which makes them a reversible fastening unlike rivets.
Chicago screws are used in leatherwork for closures, strap adjusters, interchangeable strap systems, and anywhere that the fitting may need to be undone during the life of the piece. They are also commonly used for setting hardware into leather panels where removing and replacing is anticipated.
The thread is typically a fixed standard, so male posts and female barrels from the same source are compatible. Post length must suit the combined leather thickness — if the barrel is too short the thread will not engage fully; too long and the fitting will feel loose or stand proud of the surface.
Snaps
Press studs and snap fasteners — usually called snaps in leatherwork — form a closure that can be pressed together and released repeatedly. The socket and stud form the closing halves; install them with the fixing components and dies specified for the exact snap.
Snaps are used for closures on bags, card holder flaps, belt bags, pouches, and any leatherwork that needs a fastener that opens repeatedly in use. They are not structural fittings — they are closure hardware.
Snaps come in different sizes and constructions for different jobs. Line 20 is one common option, but it is not the automatic choice for every bag or pouch. Select the snap according to the leather thickness, item size, required closing force and design, then use the dies made for that exact fitting.
Setting snaps requires the correct dies for the specific snap size and type — the back setter die and the cap die must match. Using incorrect dies splits the cap or fails to set the socket properly.
Choosing between them
The choice depends on the function:
– Rivet: permanent join, structural hold, or decoration where the fitting will never need to open
– Chicago screw: removable fastening, replaceable hardware, or anywhere the connection may need to be undone
– Snap: repeated-use closure on bags, pouches, and any piece that opens regularly
Get the hardware right for the function first. Appearance is secondary to whether the fitting can do its job over the life of the piece. For a closer, side-by-side look at rivets and Chicago screws specifically, see our Chicago screws vs rivets comparison.
Frequently asked questions
What are leather rivets used for?
Rivets are used for permanent joins that will never need to be opened — joining strap loops to D-rings, reinforcing high-stress attachment points, securing hardware fittings, and structural connections where a stitch line alone may not be sufficient. A set rivet is not designed to open for routine adjustment; removing it can mark the leather.
What are Chicago screws used for in leatherwork?
Chicago screws are used wherever the connection may need to be undone — interchangeable strap systems, hardware fittings that may need replacement, closures on cases and portfolios, and any join that might need to be opened during the life of the piece. They are threaded and can be removed with a small screwdriver.
What size snaps do you use for leatherwork?
Different snaps suit different jobs. Choose the size and construction according to the leather thickness, scale of the item, closing force and design. Use the dies made for that exact snap; mismatched dies can damage the cap or leave the fitting poorly set.
What is the difference between rivets and Chicago screws?
Rivets make a permanent fastening that is not intended to open for routine adjustment. Chicago screws are threaded: unscrew the male screw from the female barrel to remove the fastening. Choose according to whether the hardware will need to be changed or adjusted.
