Chicago Screws vs Rivets for Leatherwork
Quick answer: The fundamental difference is reversibility. Rivets are permanent — once set, the post is flared and cannot be removed without cutting or damage. Chicago screws are threaded and can be undone with a screwdriver, making them suitable wherever the connection may need to be removed or replaced. Use rivets for permanent structural joins; use Chicago screws where reversibility matters. Post length must suit the leather thickness for both.
Chicago screws and rivets are both used to join layers of leather and secure hardware fittings, but they serve different purposes. Choosing between them is a straightforward decision once you understand what each one is for.
The fundamental difference
The key difference is reversibility.
A rivet is a permanent fastening. Once set, the post is flared or folded on the back side and cannot be removed without cutting or damaging it. The join is permanent and, done correctly, is strong.
A Chicago screw (also called a binding post or Chicago bolt) is a threaded two-part fitting — a male post that threads into a female barrel. It can be undone with a screwdriver, which means it can be removed, replaced, and reused. The join is firm but reversible.
This single distinction determines which one is right for a given application.
When to use a rivet
Use rivets where the connection is permanent and will never need to be opened:
– Joining a bag strap loop to a D-ring where the fitting is built into the leather permanently
– Reinforcing a high-stress point — a handle attachment, a corner, a strap junction — where the rivet is adding structural strength to a join
– Decorative surface details where the fitting is not structural but needs to be permanent and cleanly finished
Rivets are also appropriate where the back of the fitting will be hidden — inside a bag body, under a lining, or in a construction where the finished back is not visible. Single cap rivets work well in these situations.
Where both sides of the leather will be visible, double cap rivets give a clean finish on both face and back.
When to use a Chicago screw
Use Chicago screws where the connection may need to be undone during the life of the piece:
– Interchangeable strap systems, where the customer may swap straps between different bags
– Adjustable or replaceable fittings that may need servicing or replacement without replacing the whole piece
– Closure hardware on cases and portfolios where occasional opening and reconfiguring is expected
– Any situation where removing the fitting to repair, adjust, or replace a component is a foreseeable need
Chicago screws are also used in leatherwork as a closure mechanism on their own — the screw head forms part of the visible hardware, particularly in utility and heritage-style pieces.
Strength comparison
A properly set rivet, correctly sized for the leather, is typically a stronger permanent join than a Chicago screw. The flared post of a set rivet is less likely to fail under sustained pulling load than a threaded fitting.
Chicago screws are adequately strong for the applications they are suited to — strap attachments, hardware connection, closures — but they are not the right choice for very high-stress structural joins where maximum holding strength is needed.
Post length matters for both
For both rivets and Chicago screws, the post length must suit the combined thickness of the leather. A post that is too short will not set properly (rivet) or will not thread securely (Chicago screw). A post that is too long will produce a poor set or a fitting that stands proud of the surface.
Measure the combined leather thickness, add a small amount for the setting or thread engagement, and choose accordingly. Test on scrap first before committing to the final piece.
Appearance
Both are available in different metals and finishes — brass, solid brass, matte nickel, and similar. Choose a finish that is consistent with any other hardware on the piece. Mixing finishes without intention looks unintentional. A coherent hardware choice — all brass, or all matte nickel, across rivets, buckles, and rings — gives a finished, deliberate result.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between Chicago screws and rivets?
Rivets are permanent — once set, the post is flared and cannot be removed without cutting or damaging the leather. Chicago screws are threaded and reversible — the male post can be unscrewed from the female barrel with a screwdriver. This single difference in reversibility is what determines which one is appropriate for a given application.
When should you use Chicago screws instead of rivets?
Use Chicago screws wherever the connection may need to be undone — interchangeable strap systems, hardware that may need replacement, closures on folios and cases, and any join that a maker or customer may want to open over the life of the piece. Use rivets where the join is permanent and strength under sustained load is a priority.
Are Chicago screws strong enough for leatherwork?
Chicago screws are adequately strong for the applications they are designed for — strap attachments, hardware connections, closure hardware. They are not the right choice for very high-stress structural joins where maximum holding strength is needed under sustained pulling load; a properly set rivet is stronger in those situations.
How do you use Chicago screws in leather?
Punch a hole through both leather layers sized to match the post. Pass the female barrel through from one side and thread the male post into it from the other side. Tighten with a screwdriver until the fitting is firm. The post length must suit the combined leather thickness — too short and the thread will not engage securely; too long and the fitting will stand proud.
