Rivets, Chicago Screws, and Snaps Explained
Quick answer: Rivets are permanent two-part metal fasteners for structural joins that will never need to open. Chicago screws are threaded two-part fittings that can be removed and replaced — used where the connection may need to be undone. Snaps are press-stud closures for bags, pouches, and flaps that open and close repeatedly. Each has a specific function; the right choice depends on whether the fitting needs to be permanent, reversible, or a repeated-use closure.
Rivets, Chicago screws, and snaps are three of the most commonly used hardware fittings in leatherwork. They look superficially similar to non-leatherworkers, but each has a different function, a different setting process, and is suited to different applications. Understanding the difference helps you choose the right fitting for the job.
Rivets
A rivet is a permanent, two-part metal fitting. It consists of a cap (the visible domed top) and a post (the shank that passes through the leather). Once set, the post is flared or folded over on the back side to lock the two pieces of leather together permanently.
Rivets are used where a strong, permanent join is needed and the fitting will not need to be opened. Typical uses include joining bag straps to bag bodies, securing D-ring fittings to leather loops, reinforcing high-stress points, and fixing layers together where a stitch line alone may not be sufficient.
Double cap rivets have a decorative cap on both sides — the face and the back — so both sides of the piece look finished. Single cap rivets have a decorative face and a plain, folded back. For pieces where both sides are visible, double cap rivets give the cleaner result.
Setting rivets requires a punch to make the hole, a correctly sized setter (or a suitable arbor press adapter), and a firm anvil surface. The cap and post must be matched correctly in size — particularly the post length, which should suit the combined thickness of the leather being joined. Too short and the post will not flare properly; too long and the setting will be untidy.
Chicago screws
Chicago screws — also called binding posts or Chicago bolts — are a two-part threaded fitting. A male post threads into a female barrel from opposite sides of the leather. They can be removed and replaced with a suitable screwdriver, which makes them a reversible fastening unlike rivets.
Chicago screws are used in leatherwork for closures, strap adjusters, interchangeable strap systems, and anywhere that the fitting may need to be undone during the life of the piece. They are also commonly used for setting hardware into leather panels where removing and replacing is anticipated.
The thread is typically a fixed standard, so male posts and female barrels from the same source are compatible. Post length must suit the combined leather thickness — if the barrel is too short the thread will not engage fully; too long and the fitting will feel loose or stand proud of the surface.
Snaps
Press studs and snap fasteners — typically referred to as snaps in leatherwork — are two-part closures: a socket and a stud, each of which is set into the leather using a setter and mallet or arbor press. When pressed together they click into a firm closure that can be released with a deliberate pull.
Snaps are used for closures on bags, card holder flaps, belt bags, pouches, and any leatherwork that needs a fastener that opens repeatedly in use. They are not structural fittings — they are closure hardware.
Snaps come in different sizes. Line 20 is the most common size for general leatherwork and suits most bag and pouch closure applications. The size determines the cap diameter and the setting die required. Mismatched setters and snaps will not set correctly and can damage the fitting.
Setting snaps requires the correct dies for the specific snap size and type — the back setter die and the cap die must match. Using incorrect dies splits the cap or fails to set the socket properly.
Choosing between them
The choice depends on the function:
– Rivet: permanent join, structural hold, or decoration where the fitting will never need to open
– Chicago screw: removable fastening, replaceable hardware, or anywhere the connection may need to be undone
– Snap: repeated-use closure on bags, pouches, and any piece that opens regularly
Get the hardware right for the function first. Appearance is secondary to whether the fitting can do its job over the life of the piece.
Frequently asked questions
What are leather rivets used for?
Rivets are used for permanent joins that will never need to be opened — joining strap loops to D-rings, reinforcing high-stress attachment points, securing hardware fittings, and structural connections where a stitch line alone may not be sufficient. Once set, a rivet cannot be removed without cutting or damaging the leather.
What are Chicago screws used for in leatherwork?
Chicago screws are used wherever the connection may need to be undone — interchangeable strap systems, hardware fittings that may need replacement, closures on cases and portfolios, and any join that might need to be opened during the life of the piece. They are threaded and can be removed with a small screwdriver.
What size snaps do you use for leatherwork?
Line 20 is the most common snap size for general leatherwork and suits most bag flap and pouch closure applications. The size affects both the cap diameter and the setter required — setting snaps requires the correctly matched dies for the specific size and type. Using mismatched dies will damage the fitting or produce a poor set.
What is the difference between rivets and Chicago screws?
Rivets are permanent — the post is set and flared on the back side and cannot be removed without damage. Chicago screws are threaded and reversible — the male post can be unscrewed from the female barrel with a screwdriver. Use rivets for permanent structural joins; use Chicago screws where the connection may need to be undone or replaced.
