Punching Clean Holes in Leather
Quick answer: Punching clean leather holes requires the right punch diameter, firm support underneath (a dense rubber cutting mat), and one decisive mallet strike — not multiple tentative ones. Mark hole positions accurately before punching. A dull punch compresses and tears rather than cutting cleanly, so keep punch tips sharp. An arbor press produces more consistent results than hand mallet work for heavy leather or repetitive punching.
Punching clean holes in leather — whether for rivets, snaps, buckle tongues, or belt holes — requires the right punch, proper support underneath, and a consistent technique. Torn, rough, or off-centre holes make hardware setting more difficult and look poor in the finished piece. This guide covers the practical essentials for punching clean holes by hand.
Types of punches
Drive punches are cylindrical steel punches that are struck with a mallet or hammer to cut a round hole through leather. They come in a range of diameters, typically from around 1mm up to 10mm or wider, and the hole size is fixed by the punch diameter. Drive punches are used with a mallet for smaller diameters, or with an arbor press for cleaner results and for punching through heavier leather consistently.
The Kevin Lee drive punch set we stock covers the range of holes needed for most leatherwork — from the small holes used for setting rivets and snaps through to the larger diameter holes used for belt tongues and strap connections.
Round hole punches on a rocker or rotary mechanism work on a similar principle but are mounted differently — they are set against the leather and struck or rotated through. These are commonly used for belt holes and strap adjustment holes where a series of equally spaced holes is needed.
Corner punches and shaped punches are used to cut specific profiles — rounded corners, D-shaped holes, and similar. They work the same way as drive punches.
Supporting the leather during punching
The single most important factor in punching a clean hole is what is underneath the leather. The leather must be supported on a surface that allows the punch to cut cleanly through without the punch tip hitting a surface that would blunt or damage it, and without the leather deforming downward as the punch lands.
A dense rubber or nylon cutting mat is the standard surface for punch work. It supports the leather firmly while allowing the punch tip to cut through cleanly and stop without hitting a hard surface. Do not punch on a wooden workbench, a metal surface, or a hard cutting mat — these will blunt the punch tip quickly.
An arbor press — a bench-mounted mechanical press — provides more controlled, consistent force than a mallet and is particularly useful for punching through heavier leather, setting hardware cleanly, and any repetitive punching work. With an arbor press and the right adapter, punching produces consistently clean holes with less effort than hand mallet work.
Punch placement and marking
Mark hole positions before punching. A wing divider set to the correct spacing from the edge produces consistently placed holes along a strap or belt. For single holes — for a rivet or snap — mark the position with a scratch awl or silver pen and double-check the position before punching.
For belt holes, use a spacing guide or mark equal intervals with dividers before punching all holes in sequence. A consistent spacing pattern looks deliberate; irregular spacing looks accidental.
Technique with a mallet
Place the punch squarely on the mark and hold it perpendicular to the leather surface. Strike the top of the punch firmly and squarely with a mallet in one deliberate blow. A clean punch cut requires enough force to go fully through the leather in a single strike — tentative half-force taps produce rough holes.
Do not strike multiple times at different angles — each strike that is slightly off-centre distorts the hole. One firm, square strike is better than three cautious ones.
After punching, use the punch tip to push out the leather disc from the punch barrel if it has not already dropped clear. Remove it fully before the next punch.
Keeping punches sharp
Drive punch tips dull with use, particularly if struck against hard surfaces or used on very firm leather repeatedly. A dull punch compresses and tears the leather rather than cutting cleanly, producing rough, fibrous holes. Punches can be sharpened on a fine sharpening stone or on fine wet and dry paper on a flat surface by lapping the tip face lightly. The outside edge should not need attention unless damaged.
Replace punches that are notched, chipped, or significantly dull — beyond a certain point, sharpening is not practical and a replacement is the better option.
Frequently asked questions
How do you punch holes in leather cleanly?
Use a sharp drive punch of the correct diameter, supported on a dense rubber cutting mat. Mark the hole position clearly before punching. Hold the punch perpendicular to the leather surface and strike firmly in a single, square blow — one decisive strike produces a cleaner hole than multiple tentative ones. Remove the leather disc from the punch barrel cleanly before moving to the next hole. A dull punch compresses and tears rather than cutting; replace or sharpen it when cut quality drops.
What do you use to punch holes in leather?
A drive punch struck with a mallet is the standard tool for most leatherwork — key fob holes, rivet holes, snap holes, and belt tongue holes. A round hole punch on a rotary or rocker mechanism suits belt holes and strap adjustment series. An arbor press (bench-mounted mechanical press) produces more controlled, consistent results than hand mallet work and is particularly useful for heavy leather or repetitive hole punching.
What surface do you use when punching holes in leather?
A dense rubber or nylon cutting mat. This supports the leather firmly, allows the punch tip to cut through cleanly, and does not blunt the punch tip. Do not punch on wood, metal, or a hard acrylic cutting mat — these will blunt punches quickly and the harder surface causes the punch to bounce rather than cut. A leather offcut placed under the punch also works in a pinch.
How do you punch belt holes in leather evenly?
Mark all hole positions with a wing divider set to the correct spacing before punching any of them. Set the divider to the spacing you want, walk it along from a reference point, and mark each position with a light awl scratch or silver pen mark. Check the spacing visually before committing to the punch. Punching in sequence along pre-marked positions produces consistent results; punching by eye hole by hole does not.