Punching Clean Holes in Leather
Quick answer: Punching clean leather holes requires the right punch diameter, a proper punching block or pad, a light positioning tap and then a firm controlled strike. Mark hole positions accurately before punching. A dull punch compresses and tears rather than cutting cleanly, so keep punch tips sharp. An arbor press produces more consistent results than hand mallet work for heavy leather or repetitive punching.
Punching clean holes in leather — whether for rivets, snaps, buckle tongues, or belt holes — requires the right punch, proper support underneath, and a consistent technique. Torn, rough, or off-centre holes make hardware setting more difficult and look poor in the finished piece. This guide covers the practical essentials for punching clean holes by hand.
Types of punches
Drive punches are cylindrical steel punches that are struck with a mallet or hammer to cut a round hole through leather. They come in a range of diameters, typically from around 1mm up to 10mm or wider, and the hole size is fixed by the punch diameter. Drive punches are used with a mallet for smaller diameters, or with an arbor press for cleaner results and for punching through heavier leather consistently.
The Kevin Lee drive punch set we stock covers the range of holes needed for most leatherwork — from the small holes used for setting rivets and snaps through to the larger diameter holes used for belt tongues and strap connections.
Round hole punches on a rocker or rotary mechanism work on a similar principle but are mounted differently — they are set against the leather and struck or rotated through. These are commonly used for belt holes and strap adjustment holes where a series of equally spaced holes is needed.
Corner punches and shaped punches are used to cut specific profiles — rounded corners, D-shaped holes, and similar. They work the same way as drive punches.
Supporting the leather during punching
The single most important factor in punching a clean hole is what is underneath the leather. The leather must be supported on a surface that allows the punch to cut cleanly through without the punch tip hitting a surface that would blunt or damage it, and without the leather deforming downward as the punch lands.
Use a proper punching block or pad. Magnus uses an OKA punching block with a 5mm vinyl pad on top. A substantial doubled leather offcut can serve as a temporary fallback, but a self-healing craft cutting mat is for knife work and should not be used as the regular punching surface.
An arbor press — a bench-mounted mechanical press — provides more controlled, consistent force than a mallet and is particularly useful for punching through heavier leather, setting hardware cleanly, and any repetitive punching work. With an arbor press and the right adapter, punching produces consistently clean holes with less effort than hand mallet work.
Punch placement and marking
Mark hole positions before punching. A wing divider set to the correct spacing from the edge produces consistently placed holes along a strap or belt. For single holes — for a rivet or snap — mark the position with a scratch awl or silver pen and double-check the position before punching.
For belt holes, use a spacing guide or mark equal intervals with dividers before punching all holes in sequence. A consistent spacing pattern looks deliberate; irregular spacing looks accidental.
Technique with a mallet
Place the punch squarely on the mark and hold it perpendicular to the leather. Give it a light first tap to establish the position, then check the alignment while it can still be adjusted. Follow with a firm, controlled strike to complete the hole. The number of strikes depends on the punch diameter, leather and thickness; what matters is keeping the punch square rather than chasing the hole from different angles.
Do not chase the hole with repeated strikes at different angles. After the light positioning tap, keep the punch square and use a firm, controlled strike to complete the cut. If the leather or punch requires another strike, keep the tool in the same alignment.
After punching, use the punch tip to push out the leather disc from the punch barrel if it has not already dropped clear. Remove it fully before the next punch.
Keeping punches sharp
Drive punch tips dull with use, particularly if they reach a hard surface. A suitable conical diamond sharpener can dress the inside and outside cutting edges of a round punch, although Magnus rarely needs his because he always punches into a proper block, vinyl pad or substantial leather backing. Follow the sharpener and punch maker’s instructions, and replace a punch that is chipped, badly deformed or beyond sensible maintenance.
Replace punches that are notched, chipped, or significantly dull — beyond a certain point, sharpening is not practical and a replacement is the better option.
Frequently asked questions
How do you punch holes in leather cleanly?
Use a sharp drive punch of the correct diameter, supported on a dense rubber cutting mat. Mark the hole position clearly before punching. Give the punch a light first tap to establish its position, check the alignment while it can still be adjusted, then follow with a firm, controlled strike. Keep the punch perpendicular throughout. Remove the leather disc from the punch barrel cleanly before moving to the next hole. A dull punch compresses and tears rather than cutting; replace or sharpen it when cut quality drops.
What do you use to punch holes in leather?
A drive punch struck with a mallet is the standard tool for most leatherwork — key fob holes, rivet holes, snap holes, and belt tongue holes. A round hole punch on a rotary or rocker mechanism suits belt holes and strap adjustment series. An arbor press (bench-mounted mechanical press) produces more controlled, consistent results than hand mallet work and is particularly useful for heavy leather or repetitive hole punching.
What surface do you use when punching holes in leather?
Use a proper punching block or pad. Magnus uses an OKA punching block with a 5mm vinyl pad on top. A substantial doubled leather offcut can serve as a temporary fallback — Magnus previously kept two layers of roughly 3mm leather for this — but a thin scrap is not a regular punching surface. Never punch on metal, stone, glass or a self-healing craft cutting mat.
How do you punch belt holes in leather evenly?
Mark all hole positions with a wing divider set to the correct spacing before punching any of them. Set the divider to the spacing you want, walk it along from a reference point, and mark each position with a light awl scratch or silver pen mark. Check the spacing visually before committing to the punch. Punching in sequence along pre-marked positions produces consistent results; punching by eye hole by hole does not.
